Author: Advanced Home Inspections

Wondering if you can sand lead paint?

Short answer: You can, but you really, really shouldn’t.

Lead paint isn’t just “old paint.” It’s dangerous stuff that turns toxic when disturbed. 

Sanding it kicks up a cloud of lead dust, and once that dust is in the air or on your clothes, shoes, or floor, it’s incredibly hard to contain. It gets everywhere, and it sticks around.

Lead exposure is no joke. Even small amounts can cause serious health issues.

In this post we’ll explain why you shouldn’t sand lead paint, and what you can do instead.

What Happens If You Sand Lead Paint?

The second you start sanding, you’re releasing lead dust into the air. 

It’s not visible, but it floats around and settles all over your home. It can stay on your floors, furniture, in vents, and even hitch a ride on your clothes and shoes.

Breathing that dust in? That’s how lead poisoning starts. 

It can affect your nervous system, mess with your kidneys, and do lasting damage to the brain. 

Kids are especially vulnerable because their bodies absorb lead more easily, and their little hands are always touching stuff and ending up in their mouths.

Also Check Out Our: Virginia Lead Paint Testing Services

Sanding might seem like a quick fix, but it’s opening a can of problems you don’t want.

Is It Ever Safe To Sand Lead Paint?

You should never sand lead paint. It’s super dangerous and a hazard to everyone in the house.

It’s safe to be done only in very specific situations – and with SERIOUS precautions. Professional lead abatement crews can do it safely. They use:

• Full protective gear (we’re talking full suits, gloves, goggles, and respirators)
  
• Sealed-off work areas with plastic sheeting and warning signs
  
• HEPA vacuums to catch every bit of dust
  
• Special tools designed to minimize dust spread

Unless you’re trained, certified, and have all the right equipment, it’s not something to try yourself. Even then, it’s often a last resort.

For regular homeowners, the answer is just: DON’T.

Also Read: Can You Be In The House During A Radon Test?

What Can You Do Instead Of Sanding Lead Paint?

Instead of sanding, there are a few much safer ways to handle lead paint. These methods allow you to keep your home safe, while still dealing with the paint. 

Let’s take a look at the options:

#1 Encapsulation

Encapsulation is kind of like putting a protective shell over the lead paint. 

You use a special lead-safe coating (usually a thick, durable paint or epoxy) that seals the lead paint underneath. It keeps it from chipping, peeling, or releasing dust.

This works great if the surface is in decent shape. It doesn’t require removing the old paint, so there’s no sanding involved. 

Just make sure the coating bonds well and that the existing paint isn’t already flaking or loose.

It’s one of the easiest and most affordable fixes out there.

#2 Wet Scraping

If the paint is already peeling or bubbling, you can remove it carefully using a wet scraping method. The key here is moisture. You spray the surface with water before scraping to keep dust from flying up.

This method still requires care. You’ll want to wear protective gear, cover nearby surfaces with plastic sheeting, and clean up thoroughly afterward. A HEPA vacuum helps here, too.

It’s a little messy, but it’s much safer than dry sanding.

#3 Enclosure

Another option is to just cover it up.

You can install new drywall or paneling right over the old painted surface. It seals everything behind the new layer, locking the lead paint away. This is called enclosure, and it works well in areas where the lead paint is intact but you want a fresh look without disturbing it.

Think of it as hiding the problem behind a wall that no one can get to.

It’s especially useful for big areas like walls and ceilings where removal would be a major ordeal.

#4 Professional Removal

Sometimes, the only safe bet is to call in the pros.

Lead abatement professionals are trained to remove lead paint the right way. 

They’ll test the area, set up a contained work zone, and follow all the safety protocols to make sure no dust escapes. Afterward, they do a full cleanup and disposal according to regulations.

It’s not the cheapest option, but it’s worth every penny if you want the lead completely gone. 

Plus, you won’t have to stress about safety.

Also Read: How Much Does Lead Testing Cost?

What To Do If You Think You Have Lead Paint

If you’re dealing with an older house (built before 1978), there’s a good chance you’ve got lead paint somewhere. You can’t tell just by looking so testing is the way to go.

You’ve got two options:

1. Buy a lead test kit from a hardware store (they’re quick and easy to use)
   
2. Hire a lead inspector for a more thorough, lab-based test

Once you know you’re dealing with lead paint, you can plan your next steps. Just don’t sand, scrape, or chip at it until you’re sure what it is.

If you’re a landlord, or doing renovations that disturb painted surfaces, you might also have legal obligations around testing, disclosure, and safety practices. So it’s worth checking local rules.

Bottom Line

Sanding lead paint is just not worth the risk. That dust is dangerous, hard to contain, and can cause real harm. Even a “small project” can turn into a big health hazard fast. 

If you think there’s lead paint in your home, take a step back and test it first. 

Then choose a safe solution – encapsulation, wet scraping, enclosure, or professional removal. Just don’t grab the sander. Your lungs, your home, and your family will thank you for it.

Buying a house is a big deal. Between the paperwork, inspections, and trying to picture where your couch will go, there’s a lot going on. So it’s easy to overlook some of the smaller stuff like radon testing.

But here’s the thing: radon might not be on your radar, but it should be. It’s sneaky, it’s invisible, and it could pose a serious health risk.

And you should 100% get a radon test with your home inspection.

In this post, we’ll explain why it’s one of those small steps that could save you a ton of trouble (and money) down the road.

Is Radon Testing Included In A Standard Home Inspection?

No, in most cases. A standard home inspection usually covers all the basics like the roof, plumbing, electrical, foundation, HVAC system, and the general condition of the home. 

But radon testing? That’s usually extra.

You’ll have to request it separately, and it usually comes with a small additional fee. It can cost somewhere in the $100 – $200 range. 

That might sound like just another expense when you’re already spending a lot, but in the grand scheme of things, it’s nothing compared to what it could cost if you skip it and find out later that you’ve got a radon problem on your hands.

Also Read: How Much Does A Radon Test Cost?

Should I Get A Radon Test With Home Inspection?

Yes, you should definitely get a radon test with a home inspection.

Here’s why: radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that comes from the breakdown of uranium in soil. It seeps up from the ground and can sneak into your home through cracks in the foundation, gaps in flooring, and even tiny openings around pipes.

You can’t see it. You can’t smell it. You can’t taste it. 

The only way to know it’s there is to test for it.

And it’s not just some “maybe” problem – radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S., right after smoking. 

That’s not something you want to find out after moving in, especially if it could’ve been handled ahead of time with a simple test.

Reasons To Get Radon Test With Home Inspection

You’ve already got the inspector coming out to check the house from top to bottom. This is the perfect time to just go ahead and get the radon test done, too. Why wait?

Let’s look at a few solid reasons to go for it:

#1 It’s Easier And Cheaper

If you’re already paying for a full home inspection, adding a radon test is super simple. 

The inspector is already there, the equipment’s ready, and it usually only takes a few extra days to get the results. No need to bring someone else out later, schedule a second visit, or juggle extra appointments.

And cost-wise, it’s a small bump compared to the thousands you’re already spending during the buying process, it barely makes a dent. 

But skipping it could end up costing you way more in the long run if high radon levels pop up.

#2 You’ll Know Before Buying

The best part about testing during the home inspection? You get the info before you buy. 

That means you won’t be blindsided later on with a radon problem after the deal is sealed. If the levels come back high, you can stop and figure out your next move before you’re locked into anything.

It’s a chance to make a fully informed decision. You’ll have the data in hand, and you can decide if you want to move forward.

Also Read: Can You Be In The House During A Radon Test?

#3 You Can Negotiate Repairs

If the test shows high radon levels, it’s fixable. And better yet, you can use that info as a bargaining chip. This is your moment to talk to the seller and ask them to handle the mitigation or knock a bit off the asking price to cover the cost.

It’s way easier to negotiate repairs like this before you close. 

Once the keys are in your hand, the problem (and the bill) becomes yours. 

So use this opportunity to protect your investment and maybe even save a little cash.

#4 Peace Of Mind

At the end of the day, knowing your new home is safe feels really good. You don’t want to be constantly wondering if something dangerous is floating around in the air. 

Radon might be invisible, but once you test for it, it’s either a non-issue or something you can take care of.

Either way, you’ll sleep better knowing the air in your home is safe for you and your family. 

And if you ever decide to sell down the road, having that radon test done ahead of time is a nice little bonus for future buyers, too. Total win-win.

Also Read: Types Of Home Inspections

What Happens If The Radon Level Is High?

A radon mitigation system is usually the answer. 

These systems pull radon from beneath the house and vent it safely outside, usually with a pipe and fan setup. It’s not invasive and doesn’t require tearing your whole place apart.

Most systems cost between $800 and $1,500 depending on the size and layout of the house. 

Again, not cheap, but way better than leaving it alone. 

And if you catch the issue before buying, you can ask the seller to pay for it, split the cost, or lower the price of the home.

Also, after mitigation, you’ll want to test again just to make sure levels have dropped. Some people even install continuous radon monitors just for peace of mind, but that’s optional.

Bottom Line

Yes, you should get a radon test with your home inspection. It’s quick, it’s affordable, and it could uncover a serious issue before you’re stuck with it. 

Even if everything comes back fine, it’s worth the peace of mind. Radon testing isn’t automatically included in most home inspections, so be sure to ask for it.

You’re already investing a lot into this house, and adding one extra test can help you breathe easier, literally and figuratively.

If you’re getting ready to test your home for radon, you might be wondering if you can still live your life while this thing is going on. 

Like, can I cook dinner, hang out, binge a show, or take a nap without ruining the whole test? 

The short answer: yes, you can be in the house during a radon test. But there are a few ground rules to follow to make sure the results come out accurate. 

The good news is, these rules are simple and super manageable.

In this post, we’ll explain if you can be in the house during a radon test.

Can You Be In The House During A Radon Test?

Yes, it’s totally fine to stay in your home during a radon test. 

You can watch TV, make dinner, fold laundry, and do your regular day-to-day stuff as long as you don’t mess with the testing conditions.

To get the most accurate results, you’ll need to follow some specific rules. 

The reason for this is that the test measures radon levels, and even the slightest changes in how the house is ventilated can mess with those readings.

Also Read: How Much Does A Radon Test Cost?

Rules To Follow If You’re In The House For The Test

If you’re planning to stay home during the test (which most people do), you must make sure your indoor air stays stable. That means avoiding anything that could stir things up too much. 

Here’s what to keep in mind:

#1 Keep All Windows And Doors Closed

This one’s big. For the test to give a true reading, the house needs to stay sealed up. 

That means keeping all windows and exterior doors shut for at least 12 hours before the test starts, and keeping them closed the entire time the test is running. 

You can still open doors briefly to come and go, like letting the dog out or grabbing the mail, but no long, breezy open-door moments.

If it’s chilly out, even better – that’s when homes naturally stay sealed, and the test gets a more realistic read.

#2 Don’t Use Fans Or Ventilation Systems

Any fans or systems that pull in air from outside should be turned off. This includes attic fans, whole-house ventilation systems, or anything labeled as “fresh air” exchange. 

They can mess with air pressure inside the home and throw off the test results.

That said, ceiling fans or fans that just circulate indoor air are usually okay. 

Also Read: How Accurate Are Air Mold Tests?

But skip anything that moves air in or out of the house from the outside for now.

#3 Avoid Running Exhaust Fans

Bathroom fans, kitchen range hoods, and clothes dryers all fall into this category. 

They pull air out of the house, and if used a lot, they can create a vacuum effect that draws radon in from the ground faster than usual.

Using them once in a while is fine (like turning on the bathroom fan for a few minutes after a shower) but try not to keep them running constantly. 

Try to keep the air movement minimal and balanced.

#4 Leave The Test Device Alone

This one sounds pretty simple, but it’s worth repeating: don’t mess with the test device. 

Resist the urge to check on it or move it around. Once the device is placed, it needs to stay exactly where it is. Even a small shift could affect the results. 

Don’t put anything on top of it, don’t try to peek at the numbers, and definitely don’t unplug it.

Also Read: How Long Does A Home Inspection Take

#5 Maintain Normal Indoor Temperature

Try to keep the temperature inside the house as normal as possible. 

68 – 77°F is the sweet spot for radon testing.

If it gets too hot or too cold, air pressure inside your house can change, which affects the way radon moves, which in turn could influence the radon readings.

So just leave your thermostat alone for a couple of days. Set it to what feels good and let it run like normal.

Why These Conditions Matter

All these rules might seem a little picky, but they’re actually super important. 

Radon levels in your house can change based on airflow, pressure, and temperature. 

If you open a window or crank a fan, you’re not getting an honest reading of what the air is really like inside your home on a normal day.

For example, if you open a window or turn on a fan, you might pull in outside air that doesn’t have as much radon, or you could push air out of the house that contains radon.

This would make the test results a lot less accurate.

Radon is always in the air, but its concentration varies depending on airflow. Keeping everything as still and consistent as possible makes sure that the radon test is measuring the natural levels in your home, not the levels impacted by changes in ventilation.

What Happens After The Test?

Once the test is done, you’ll either get instant results (if it’s a digital monitor) or you’ll send the kit off to a lab (if it’s a DIY charcoal canister type). 

If you use a professional service, they’ll usually email or call with results in a day or two.

So what do you do if the radon level is high?

Don’t panic. There are solid fixes out there. Radon mitigation systems are designed to vent radon out from under your home and keep it from coming in. These systems work well and aren’t as invasive or expensive as people often think.

If your levels are low, you’re good to go. No action needed.

However, you might want to test again in a couple of years or if you do any major renovations.

Bottom Line

You can totally stay home during a radon test. Just pretend your house is on “do not disturb” mode for a couple of days. Close up the place, keep things steady, and let the test do its thing.

It’s not a huge deal, but following these basic rules can make all the difference in getting clear, reliable results. 

So, go ahead and relax at home while the test is going on!

Thinking about getting a home inspection but not sure which kind you actually need? 

You’re not alone. There are a bunch of different types out there – some cover the whole house, others focus on specific stuff like the roof, plumbing, or even things like mold or radon.

In this post, we’ll give you a rundown of the most common types of home inspections.

#1. General Home Inspections

A general home inspection is the most common type of home inspection, and it will give you a snapshot of the home’s overall condition. 

An inspector looks at all the major systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and structure) to make sure everything is functioning properly. Afterward, they’ll give you a report about what’s in good shape and what might need fixing.

This inspection doesn’t go super deep into every little thing, but it’s a great starting point. 

If the house passes this inspection, you’ll know it’s generally in good shape. If it doesn’t, the inspector will give you a list of repairs that might be needed.

Also Read: Things That Fail A Home Inspection

#2. Roof Inspections

When was the last time you looked at your roof? For most of us, it’s been ages.

A roof inspection checks out the condition of the roof and how much life it has left.

Inspectors look at shingles, flashing, gutters, downspouts, and anything else connected to the roof. They’re checking for damage, wear and tear, moss, drainage issues, and spots where water might sneak in.

This inspection is especially helpful if the roof is older, or if you’ve noticed signs like ceiling stains or missing shingles.

#3. Pest Inspections

You’d be surprised at how many homes are infested with pests like termites or ants. 

A pest inspection looks for signs of these critters, which might not be visible at first glance. Termites, for example, can silently eat away at the structure of the house, weakening the foundation over time.

The inspector will check for damage or droppings that indicate pests have moved in. 

If you find out you’ve got a pest problem, you can address it early before it gets worse. No one wants to deal with an infestation after they’ve already moved in!

#4. Mold Inspections

Mold can be a quiet little menace. It grows in damp, dark areas (like the basement and under sinks), and it can spread fast if the moisture issue sticks around. 

A mold inspection helps catch it before it takes over.

The inspector will look for visible mold, of course, but they’re also hunting for the stuff you can’t see. That includes checking for musty smells, water damage, and high humidity spots. 

Some inspectors use moisture meters or thermal cameras to find damp areas behind walls. Others take air samples to test spore levels.

If the inspection turns up mold, you’ll want to take care of it ASAP.

Also Read: How Accurate Are Air Mold Tests?

#5. Radon Inspections

Radon is a colorless, odorless gas that can be seriously dangerous. 

It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil and rock, and it can seep into homes through cracks in foundations and other openings.

Radon inspections involve setting out a monitor, usually for 2 to 4 days. That device checks the radon levels in the home. If the number comes back too high, you might need a radon mitigation system, which usually just means improving ventilation or sealing up entry points.

Testing is especially common during home sales, but honestly, every homeowner should do it at least once.

It’s easy, affordable, and it could seriously protect your health.

#6. Sewer Or Septic Inspections

Out of sight, out of mind… until your tub backs up or your yard starts smelling.

That’s where sewer or septic inspections come in.

If your house is connected to city sewer lines, a sewer inspection involves running a camera through the pipes to check for blockages, cracks, or other issues.

If the home has a septic system, the inspection involves popping the lid off the tank and checking for signs of overflow, leaks, or slow drainage in the drain field.

Sewer and septic problems can be expensive to fix and really unpleasant to live with, so getting an inspection can help you avoid buying a home with expensive plumbing surprises!

Also Read: Sewer Line Camera Inspection Costs

#7. HVAC inspections

The heating and cooling system is easy to forget – until it stops working. 

An HVAC inspection gives you a heads-up before that happens.

The inspector will test both the heating and AC units to see how well they’re running. They’ll look at the furnace, check refrigerant levels, test airflow through the vents, inspect ductwork for leaks, and make sure the thermostat is doing its job.

If the system’s older, they might also check for things like rust, corrosion, or clogged filters. 

An efficient HVAC system can save you money on energy bills, so it’s about the cost, too.

#8. Foundation Inspections

The foundation is literally what holds everything up. If there’s a problem there, it can cause a domino effect throughout the entire house.

Foundation inspections take a close look at all that. 

The inspector checks for cracks in walls or ceilings, uneven floors, and door frames that don’t sit right. Outside, they’ll walk the perimeter to spot cracks, bulging areas, or signs of settling.

They’ll also check crawl spaces or basements if the house has them. 

If they find something concerning, they may suggest bringing in a structural engineer.

Also Read: How Much Does A Foundation Inspection Cost

#9. Electrical Inspections

Electrical issues can be pretty dangerous.

An electrical inspection looks at your home’s electrical system, including the main panel, wiring, outlets, and fixtures.

The inspector will check if your electrical system meets current safety codes. They’ll look for outdated wiring, overloaded circuits, and other potential hazards.

If the system is outdated or there are safety concerns, the inspector will flag them.

If the house has had a lot of upgrades over the years (or if you’re planning a remodel) this kind of inspection can be a lifesaver. Electrical issues are one of the top causes of house fires, so it’s smart to make sure everything’s wired safely.

#10. Plumbing Inspections

A plumbing inspection goes beyond what you’d see in a general home inspection. 

During a plumbing inspection, the inspector checks every faucet, toilet, drain, and visible pipe. They look for leaks, corrosion, water pressure issues, and signs of clogs. In some cases, they might use a camera to inspect the inside of your pipes.

They’ll also take a look at the water heater, check the temperature settings, and see if there’s any buildup or wear.

Plumbing inspections are great before buying a home, but they’re also helpful if you’re dealing with high water bills, strange smells, or water spots you can’t explain.

#11. Lead Paint Inspections

Lead paint is mostly a concern in older homes built before 1978. 

If you have young kids or pregnant women in the house, lead paint can be a serious health risk. 

A lead paint inspection checks for any traces of lead-based paint using special tools (like an XRF analyzer) in places that might be deteriorating, like window sills or door frames.

If lead paint is found, you’ll need to have it removed safely. 

Lead paint that’s in good condition might not be an immediate problem. But if it’s peeling, chipping, or otherwise deteriorating, it should be taken care of.

#12. Asbestos Inspections

Asbestos was used in a ton of building materials up until the late 1970s.

It’s strong, fire-resistant, and good for insulation, but it can cause serious health problems, like lung cancer and mesothelioma, if it’s disturbed and inhaled.

An asbestos inspection identifies materials that might contain asbestos like:

• Ceiling tiles
• Pipe insulation
• Wall plaster
• Vinyl floor tiles

The inspector will collect small samples and send them to a lab for analysis.

If asbestos is found, don’t panic. It only becomes a problem when it’s disturbed. But if you’re planning renovations or repairs, you’ll want to get it professionally removed.

Bottom Line

So, there you have it  – an overview of the different types of home inspections.

Remember, you don’t necessarily need every single type for every home purchase.

Start with a general inspection, then add specific inspections based on what the general inspector finds and what makes sense for your particular situation.

The more you know about your home’s condition, the better off you’ll be.

If you’re buying a home, you’re probably hearing a lot about inspections. And if you’re like most people, your first thought is something like: “Okay, but how long is this gonna take?”

Totally fair. Nobody wants to spend their whole day standing around while someone pokes at pipes and checks outlets.

In this post, we’ll break down how long a home inspection takes in Virginia .

How Long Does A Home Inspection Take?

A full home inspection takes somewhere between 2 to 4 hours from start to finish.

That’s for a typical single-family home. It’s enough time for the inspector to go through everything in detail, take photos, make notes, and answer your questions if you’re there for the walkthrough.

Now you don’t have to follow them around the whole time, but a lot of buyers choose to show up at the end for a quick rundown of the big stuff.

The actual inspection report usually comes later that day or the next, depending on how fast your inspector works.

Also Read: How Much Is A Home Inspection?

Factors That Affect Home Inspection Times

Let’s dig a bit deeper into what exactly affects how long the inspection might take:

#1 Size Of The House

One of the biggest factors is the size of the house. The inspector has more square footage to cover, more rooms to check, and possibly more systems to assess.

For example, a 3-bedroom home might take 2 to 3 hours to inspect, while a 6-bedroom home could stretch closer to 4 hours.

The more space there is, the more work it is for the inspector.

#2 How Old The House Is

Age matters too. Older homes (especially those built before the 1980s) can take longer to inspect because there might be more to check.

Makes sense, right? They’ve had more time to develop character… and problems!

Older homes might have outdated electrical systems, hidden plumbing problems, or issues with the foundation that aren’t as obvious as in newer houses.

Inspecting all of these elements can add extra time.

On the other hand, a newer house might have fewer hidden issues or systems that need deep dives. So, a house built in the last 10 years could be quicker to inspect.

Also Read: 10 Things That Fail A Home Inspection In Virginia

#3 Major Systems

The systems in the house also impact how long an inspection takes.

We’re talking things like the HVAC system, plumbing, electrical, and appliances. Inspectors need to make sure these systems are functioning properly.

If there are a lot of systems in the home, or if any of them are older and complex, the inspector will spend more time on them.

For example, an HVAC system in a 4,000-square-foot home with multiple zones will require more time to inspect than one in a small, single-zone home.

Same goes for the plumbing – more bathrooms and kitchen sinks mean more to check out.

#4 Type Of Foundation

Virginia homes come with various foundation types – from full basements to crawl spaces to concrete slabs. Each presents different inspection challenges.

A clean, empty, and finished basement might only add 20-30 minutes to an inspection.

But a crawl space? That’s a different story! Your inspector has to physically crawl under your house (hence the name), checking for moisture issues, structural problems, pest infestations, and more. This alone can add 30-60 minutes to the inspection time.

Homes built on concrete slabs are usually quicker to inspect since there’s less accessible area underneath, but the inspector still needs to check carefully for cracks or settling issues.

#5 Inspector’s Experience And Thoroughness

Experience matters a lot. An inspector who’s been in the business for years (like us!) is probably going to be faster at recognizing problems. They’ll have a system down, and they’ll know where to look right away.

But someone newer to the job might take more time.

Both approaches have their pros and cons.

Some inspectors like to do a super detailed, “no stone left unturned” type of inspection, which can stretch things out. Others might work quickly and efficiently, getting the job done in less time.

It’s really about the inspector’s style and how comfortable they are with the property.

Also Read: Is Thermal Imaging Worth It For A Home Inspection?

#6 Weather Conditions

Virginia weather can be unpredictable! Rain, snow, or extreme heat can slow down inspections a lot.

When it’s pouring rain, inspectors might need extra time to check for leaks or drainage issues. They’ll also move more cautiously on wet roofs or slippery surfaces.

During winter, snow might make certain areas inaccessible, like roofs or exterior elements. And in Virginia’s humid summers, inspectors might take longer checking crawl spaces for moisture or mold issues.

The best inspections happen on mild, dry days – but we can’t always control the weather!

#7 Chatty Clients

This one’s a little funny, but it’s true – sometimes the client (that’s you!) can make the inspection take longer.

If you ask tons of questions during the inspection, it’ll take longer. That’s not a bad thing! It’s your future home and your right to understand everything. Just be aware that your involvement adds time.

Some inspectors prefer to work uninterrupted and save questions for the end. Others welcome questions throughout.

Either way, plan to stick around for the entire inspection so you can learn about your potential new home firsthand.

Also Read: How Much Does Lead Testing Cost In Virginia?

Bottom Line

A home inspection takes around 2 – 4 hours in Virginia.

But depending on factors like the size of the house, its age, the systems involved, and even the weather, it could be shorter or longer. It’s really a case-by-case thing.

If you’re planning a home inspection, the best advice is to set aside at least a few hours and be flexible.

Oh and remember that after the physical inspection, your inspector still needs time to compile their report – usually another 24 – 48 hours.

FAQs

How Long Does A Home Inspection Take For A Condo?

Usually around 1 to 2 hours. Condos are smaller and have fewer systems to inspect. Plus, the building handles most of the big stuff, like the roof or HVAC.

How Long Does A Home Inspection Take For A Townhouse?

About 2 to 3 hours. Townhouses fall somewhere between a condo and a full house. Inspectors check shared walls and any systems you’re responsible for.

How Long Is A Home Inspection Good For?

A home inspection is good for about 30 days.

This means that the findings from the inspection are only relevant for that period. If you’re closing on the house within that time frame, the inspection is generally still valid.

If you’ve got old linoleum flooring in your home, it’s normal to wonder if it’s hiding asbestos.

A lot of homes built before the ’80s still have original flooring tucked under carpets, furniture, or newer layers. And while it might just be outdated and ugly, there’s also a chance it contains something more dangerous.

In this post, we’ll explain if old linoleum contains asbestos, what to look for, why it matters, and what to do if you think you’ve got asbestos underfoot.

Does Old Linoleum Contain Asbestos?

Here’s the short answer: it depends.

Real linoleum (the kind made from natural stuff like linseed oil, cork dust, and wood flour) usually doesn’t contain asbestos.

That said, a lot of people call all old sheet flooring “linoleum,” even when it’s not.

Vinyl flooring, which looks super similar to linoleum, did contain asbestos if it was installed several decades ago.

Back in the day (we’re talking pre-1980s), asbestos was used in all kinds of building materials because it was durable, cheap, and fire-resistant. Flooring manufacturers added it to vinyl tile backing, sheet flooring, and even the glue that held it all down.

Also Read: 10 Things That Fail A Home Inspection In Virginia

So while actual linoleum is generally asbestos-free, it’s really easy to mistake vinyl for linoleum when it’s been sitting in place since before disco was cool.

Signs Your Linoleum Flooring Might Contain Asbestos

There’s no foolproof way to tell just by looking at your floor, but there are a few clues that can raise a red flag. If you’ve got old linoleum flooring and you notice one or more of these, it’s worth taking the extra step to get it tested.

Here’s what to look for:

#1 Installed Before 1985

This is the big one. Asbestos was widely used in flooring materials up until the early-to-mid 1980s.

If your home (or the flooring itself) dates back to that era, there’s a decent shot it could contain asbestos somewhere in the mix.

It could be in the tile backing, the sheet material, or even the glue underneath.

If you’re not sure when it was installed, checking old renovation records or permits (if you’ve got them) can help. Or just play it safe and treat anything from that timeframe with caution.

#2 9×9 Or 12×12 Tiles

These sizes were super common in older homes, especially the 9×9-inch tiles. They were cheap, easy to install, and used pretty much everywhere from kitchens to basements.

Unfortunately, 9×9 tiles in particular have a strong history of containing asbestos.

Even 12×12 tiles can be risky if they came from certain manufacturers.

So if your floor is rocking these dimensions and it’s been there since before the ‘80s, you’ve got one more reason to pause before pulling them up.

Also Read: Are All 9×9 Tiles Asbestos?

#3 Brittle, Yellowed Backing On Sheet Flooring

If you’ve got old sheet flooring (the kind that rolls out in one big piece), take a peek at the backing if it’s already peeling or cracked.

Asbestos was often added to the backing layer to give it strength and stability.

Over time, this backing can turn yellowish and become dry or brittle. That crumbly texture is exactly what you don’t want to breathe in.

If you see that kind of material underneath the sheet, don’t touch it any further.

#4 Black Adhesive Underneath

Do you see a tar-like glue under your linoleum flooring?

It’s called “cutback adhesive,” and it was commonly used back in the day. It’s thick, sticky, and usually black or dark brown. TAnd this stuff very often contained asbestos.

It’s one of the more overlooked asbestos risks because people focus so much on the tile or sheet itself. But the adhesive is just as risky, especially if it starts chipping, flaking, or turning to dust.

If you’ve got black glue under your old flooring, that’s a solid sign to stop and get it tested.

Dangers Of Disturbing Asbestos

Asbestos isn’t dangerous just sitting there, buried under your furniture and rugs. The trouble starts when it’s disturbed.

Cutting, sanding, scraping, or tearing up flooring that contains asbestos can release microscopic fibers into the air. And you really don’t want to breathe that in.

These fibers are tiny, sharp, and they can stick around in your lungs for years. Long-term exposure has been linked to some pretty serious illnesses, like mesothelioma and asbestosis.

It’s not something that shows up right away, either. The damage can take decades to become noticeable.

That’s why it’s so important to avoid disturbing old linoleum flooring that might contain asbestos during renovation projects. Even sweeping or vacuuming debris can stir up fibers and send them floating into the air.

And once they’re in, there’s no way to get them out.

What To Do If You Suspect Asbestos

If you’ve looked at your linoleum flooring and a few red flags are popping up, don’t jump straight into demo mode.

Asbestos is only dangerous when it’s disturbed, so the safest move is to pause and take the right steps before touching anything.

Here’s what you should do next:

1. Stop any removal or renovation work immediately
2. Keep the area closed off and don’t let kids or pets near it
3. Avoid sweeping, vacuuming, or touching the floor
4. Contact a certified asbestos inspector to test the material
5. If asbestos is found, hire a licensed abatement contractor for removal
6. If removal isn’t needed, you may be able to safely cover it with new flooring
7. Never try to remove asbestos flooring or adhesive on your own

Also Read: How Accurate Are Air Mold Tests?

Bottom Line

So, does old linoleum contain asbestos? Maybe – but probably not if it’s true linoleum. The real concern is with vinyl flooring, which a lot of people mistake for linoleum.

And if it was installed before the mid-1980s, there’s a decent chance it could contain asbestos in the backing or adhesive.

Taking a little time to test it can save you from way bigger problems down the road.

Plus, it’s way less stressful when you know what you’re dealing with.

FAQs

Accidentally Removed Asbestos Linoleum

If you’ve already pulled up some flooring and only found out after the fact that it might contain asbestos, stop working immediately, seal off the area if possible.

Call an asbestos professional, and let them assess the situation and test the air if needed.

If it was a small area and you didn’t break or sand anything, the risk may be low, but don’t guess. Let a pro guide you from here.

When Did They Stop Using Asbestos In Linoleum?

Asbestos wasn’t used in true linoleum, but many people confuse linoleum with vinyl flooring.

Vinyl sheet flooring and adhesive materials that contained asbestos were used until the mid-1980s. By 1986, asbestos was mostly phased out of residential flooring products in the U.S.

Thinking about getting your foundation inspected but not sure what it’s going to cost you?

You’re not alone. Foundation inspections can feel like a mystery – until cracks show up in your drywall or the floor starts to slope, and then suddenly, it’s a priority.

The good news? You don’t have to guess.

In this post, we’ll go over what you can expect to pay, what might affect that price, and what happens once the inspection is done.

Plus, we’ll also break down our foundation inspection costs in Virginia.

Our Foundation Inspection Prices

Also Check Out Our: Richmond Foundation Inspections

Average Cost Of A Foundation Inspection In Virginia

The average cost for a standard foundation inspection ranges from $300 to $800. 

That’s for a basic visual inspection done by a licensed professional. But that’s just the starting point. Costs can shift depending on a few things, which we’ll get into shortly.

Now, some companies offer “free inspections,” but those are usually tied to repair services. So they’re not always super thorough. 

If you want an unbiased opinion, it’s best to hire a structural engineer or third-party inspector.

Factors That Affect Foundation Inspection Costs

The cost of a foundation inspection can vary quite a bit, and that’s because no two homes or foundations are exactly the same. A few things can push the price up or down.

Here’s a closer look at the big stuff that affects the price:

#1 Home Size

Bigger homes usually mean higher inspection costs.

More square footage means more foundation to look at, and that takes more time. Multi-level homes or houses with lots of add-ons can also extend the process.

If your place is on the larger side, expect the price to land closer to the top of the average range.

Larger homes can also mean more crawl space entries, basement sections, or harder-to-reach areas. All of that takes extra time and sometimes extra tools.

It’s not a huge jump, but it’s something to expect if you’re living in a bigger place.

Also Read: Is Thermal Imaging Worth It For A Home Inspection?

#2 Foundation Type

The type of foundation you have will also affect the cost of a foundation inspection.

Slab foundations are usually the easiest and fastest to inspect since there’s no crawl space or basement to squeeze into. 

Crawl spaces, on the other hand, can be a bit of a pain. Inspectors often have to crawl (literally) into tight, dark, and sometimes damp areas to get a full picture of what’s going on underneath. 

That effort gets reflected in the price.

Basements are more involved than slabs but usually easier than crawl spaces.

#3 Condition And Accessibility

The easier it is to reach and inspect your foundation, the faster the job goes. 

If your crawl space is clear and there’s nothing blocking access points, that helps keep the price down. But if your foundation is buried behind storage, debris, or tight spaces, the inspector has to work harder. 

Homes with visible issues like cracks or water damage may also require a closer look, which can bump up the cost.

#4 Location

Where you live in Virginia affects foundation inspection costs too. 

Cities like Richmond, Virginia Beach, or Arlington may have higher inspection rates just because everything costs a little more in those areas. In more rural spots, it might be a bit cheaper. 

Travel fees can come into play as well. If the inspector has to drive a long way to get to you, they might tack on an extra charge.

Also Read: How Accurate Are Air Mold Tests?

#5 Inspector’s Experience

Just like with anything else, experience comes at a premium. 

A highly-rated structural engineer with years under their belt is going to charge more than someone just starting out. But you’re also more likely to get a detailed report that helps you figure out your next steps. 

It’s kind of like paying more for a great mechanic. You’re not just paying for their time—you’re paying for peace of mind.

#6 Additional Testing

Sometimes a visual inspection isn’t enough. If there are signs of serious problems, the inspector might suggest further testing. 

That could include:

• Soil testing to check for shifting or erosion
• Moisture testing to see how much water is around your foundation
• Floor elevation measurements to detect any settling or movement

These extra steps can be helpful, but they do add to the cost. Depending on what’s needed, additional testing might run another $200 to $500 or more.

What To Expect After The Foundation Inspection

Once the inspection is done, you’ll get a full report. This usually includes notes, photos, and any measurements the inspector took. 

If there’s a problem, the report will explain what it is and how serious it might be.

From there, you’ve got a few paths you can take. If your foundation looks solid, great – you’re done. But if issues come up, you’ll probably need to get repair estimates. 

Most inspectors won’t do repairs themselves, but they can recommend trusted contractors.

Keep in mind: not all cracks mean disaster. Some are just cosmetic. The report should make that clear.

Bottom Line

A foundation inspection usually costs between $300 and $800 in Virginia, depending on your home’s size, foundation type, location, and a few other factors. It might cost more if extra testing is needed or if your inspector has a ton of experience.

It might feel like a lot upfront for just an inspection, but it’s a smart investment. 

Foundation issues can turn into big, expensive problems if they’re ignored. Getting a clear picture now can save you a ton later.

So if you’re seeing cracks, sloping floors, or sticking doors: don’t wait. Schedule the inspection, get the facts, and make a plan. Your house (and your wallet) will thank you.

Getting ready for a home inspection in Virginia? 

Inspections are serious business. They can make or break a sale. And honestly, they sometimes reveal stuff you’d never expect. 

So, if you’re planning to buy or sell a home, it’s a good idea to know what could raise a red flag ahead of time.

In this post, we’ll go over 10 things that can cause a home to fail inspection in Virginia.

#1 Foundation And Structural Issues

This one’s huge. A home’s foundation is, quite literally, what everything else sits on. So, if there are cracks, shifts, or signs the structure isn’t holding up like it should, it’s a red flag. 

Inspectors look for uneven floors, sticking doors, big wall cracks, or gaps around windows.

Sometimes the issues are minor, like normal settling. But other times? It’s a sign of something serious going on underground. 

Plus, foundation repairs aren’t cheap, and they can definitely spook buyers. 

So if your home has any of these issues, it’s better to know early.

Also Read: How much does a foundation inspection cost?

#2 Roof Problems

Roofs in Virginia take a beating—sun, snow, storms, you name it. Over time, shingles wear out, flashing gets loose, and leaks start showing up. 

During an inspection, if the roof is clearly aging or damaged, that’s going to be flagged.

Missing shingles, sagging spots, or signs of water inside the attic are all things that get attention fast. And if the inspector finds active leaks or signs of previous water damage, that’s going in the report too.

Roofs aren’t cheap to fix, either, so this one tends to be a deal-breaker if it’s in bad shape.

#3 Electrical Hazards

Now, we’re not talking about needing a new light fixture. We’re talking about old or unsafe wiring. Maybe the panel is outdated. Or maybe someone got creative and made their own electrical “upgrades.” 

Spoiler alert: DIY wiring is never a good idea.

Inspectors check for overloaded circuits, exposed wires, improper grounding, and outlets that don’t work. 

Homes with aluminum wiring or fuse boxes instead of breakers usually raise eyebrows too. 

Safety is the concern here, plain and simple. Nobody wants a fire hazard behind their walls.

#4 Plumbing Defects

Water can do some serious damage if things go sideways. Inspectors test the water pressure, look for leaks, and check out all visible pipes. 

Leaky faucets are one thing—but corroded pipes or water stains in the ceiling are a red flag.

Older homes in Virginia sometimes still have galvanized pipes, which can rust and clog. 

Low water pressure, slow drains, or signs of water damage are all things that make inspectors take a closer look. Plumbing issues can range from minor annoyances to full-blown pipe replacements.

Also Read: Sewer Line Camera Inspection Costs In Virginia

#5 Drainage And Grading Issues

Draining problems are another thing that will fail a home inspection.

When water doesn’t drain away from the house, it’s a problem. And Virginia gets plenty of rain, so this one matters. 

Poor grading means the yard slopes toward the house instead of away from it. That can lead to water pooling near the foundation—or worse, seeping into the basement.

Inspectors keep an eye out for soggy yards, standing water, and signs that runoff isn’t being handled properly. Even clogged gutters or downspouts can be part of this. Over time, bad drainage can mess with the foundation or invite pests and mold. 

Definitely not something you want to ignore.

#6 HVAC Problems

Heating and cooling system issues can also fail a home inspection in Virginia.

In an inspection, the HVAC system gets tested to make sure it runs well, heats and cools properly, and isn’t making any weird noises. They’ll also check the filters, ductwork, and the age of the unit.

Older units that haven’t been maintained can be flagged for inefficiency or potential failure. 

And if the inspector finds carbon monoxide leaks or poor ventilation,that’s going to be a hard no until it’s fixed.

#7 Pest Infestations

Nobody wants to hear the word “termites” during a home inspection. But it happens. And in Virginia, termites and other wood-destroying insects are definitely a concern.

Inspectors look for damaged wood, sawdust trails, droppings, nests, and even live bugs. 

It’s not just about creepy crawlies—it’s about what they’re doing to the house. Left unchecked, pests can cause serious structural damage.

And it’s not just termites. Rodents, ants, bees, and even bats can be a problem. 

Any sign of infestation is going to be noted and fail a home inspection.

#8 Signs Of Mold

Mold is one of those things that can turn people off instantly. 

It smells bad, looks worse, and causes health issues. It’s especially a concern in damp areas like basements, bathrooms, and around HVAC systems.

Even a small patch of mold on a wall or ceiling can cause trouble in an inspection. 

What really matters is what’s causing it—usually moisture. That could mean a leak, poor ventilation, or humidity issues. 

Inspectors don’t always test for mold specifically, but if they see it or suspect it, they’ll mention it.

#9 Toxic Materials

Some homes in Virginia, especially older ones, still have things like lead paint or asbestos hiding in walls or insulation. 

That stuff wasn’t a big deal back in the day—but now, it’s a huge concern.

If a home was built before the late ’70s, inspectors will keep an eye out for potential lead paint. Same with asbestos in old insulation, ceiling tiles, or ductwork. 

It doesn’t always need to be removed immediately, but it does need to be disclosed. And buyers have a right to know what they’re walking into.

Also Read: How much does lead testing cost in Virginia?

#10 Code And Safety Violations

This one’s kind of a catch-all, but it’s important. If a previous owner did DIY renovations without permits or didn’t follow code, that’s a red flag. 

Stuff like missing handrails, no GFCI outlets in bathrooms or kitchens, or lack of smoke detectors can all come up.

Inspectors aren’t necessarily looking to enforce local building codes, but they do flag things that aren’t safe or up to modern standards. Even little things like a stair railing that’s too low or a missing escape window in the basement can count.

All this could fail a home inspection too.

Bottom Line

There you go – 10 things that can fail an inspection.

If you’re selling, fixing small issues ahead of time can save you a headache. If you’re buying, knowing what’s hiding behind the drywall gives you peace of mind. 

Either way, don’t stress. Most things on this list can be handled—it’s just better to deal with them before they turn into bigger problems.

At the end of the day, home inspections are all about catching problems early.